South Africa 2015 - Take Aways

South Africa 2015 - Take Aways

This is a bulleted list of some revelations we had during our trip to the country on the right.

In no particular order but divided by locale… a recap. Enjoy!

Johannesburg, South Africa

• Due to my err in carefully looking at the itinerary, we did not stay as planned in this town
• The OR Tambo International Airport, and process of taking care of guests definitely needed some attention.  
• Plenty of options for eating and shopping.
• Seriously, bused to and from the planes?
• Seriously, we walked 5k steps from one terminal to the other (I counted via my Fitbit).
• Airport Craft Brewers (ACB) beer was pretty dang tasty, each of the three four times we landed there.
• Airport security was just that, people making money to make you take stuff out your pockets.
• I didn't feel safe, but I didn't feel in danger either.
• I didn't have to take my shoes or belt off, and still felt safe.
• We had to go through security each time we went from terminal to terminal.
• People watching at this airport was pretty excellent.

Zulu Nyala, South Africa (aka Hluhluwe, KwaZulu Natal)

• Renting a car is easy, even if you reserve it in a different town, like Durban (a mere hour plus away).
• Hertz took good care of us by changing the reservation, which made me thank them very much.
• GPS devices are very nice, since our US phones couldn't do data over there without charging us a mortgage payment in fees.
• They drive on the wrong (left) side of the road.
• Cows and goats are free range (no fences).
• The Big 5 and Magnificent 7 are fenced in with electric fences.
• NO such thing as free range wildlife, as we know it.
• They are called ‘preserves’ - as in preserving the wild from poachers (aka reserves).
• Or so they say…
• Impalas and Nyalas still roam free (nobody wants them as target practice).
• The game drives were fun, no matter the size of the pre/reserve. 
• Its all about the guide and his/her radio on what game you got to see.
• Tips were only supposed to be 10%, but we tipped 20%.
• We were LOVED at Zulu due to tipping practice!
• Zulu felt like home, mostly due to all the Americans that were there.
• This made for a nice break in period in a different country.
• Nyala is pronounced “In-Yeah-La” not “Nie-Al-Ah” as previously thought.
• We never, ever, never had a bad meal at this lodge.
• We never, ever, saw a male lion or a leopard in these parts, which saddened us.

Richards Bay, South Africa

• Beer in the bay at Jacks was R11.50, which at the time equated to $0.80US each for a 500ml.
• 500ml = 16.907oz.
• I liked Richards Bay.
• Massages were R400 for 60 minutes, which at the time, equated to $30US.
• I loved Richards Bay.
• WiFi was plentiful by just asking the bar lady what the password was.
• The Protea Waterfront hotel was quite nice.
• I want a bathroom in my house just like we had in this hotel.
• The Protea Waterfront hotel only passed out 500mb chits for WiFi use per day.
• I got three or four said chits each day because the front desk liked us.
• They loved what we call classic rock.

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

• The leaders changed the currency in 2009 from the Zimbabwean dollar to the US dollar.
• http://www.rhinoafrica.com/victoria-falls/currency
• They charged for things like beer, food, and attractions like we were in New York City.
• Sorry NYC, but you gouge too, at least in Midwest terms.
• One of the seven wonders of the world, Victoria Falls, was ominous, fantastic, mysterious, and just plain freakin awesome.
• Zambia River splits Zimbabwe and Zambia and while on a cruise, you can see the difference (not really, but you could feel it).
• I never got tired of seeing hippos in the water, birds on the trees, or crocs sunbathing on the shore.
• After eating in the bush, I gained a new respect for animals - the ones that eat you as well as feed you.
• We still never, ever, saw a male lion or a leopard in these parts, which saddened us, again.
• Even after canceling our Boma dinner for another game drive just to see one of each.
• We still saw some elephants where one got pissed and acted like it wanted to charge our jeep.
• The locals are high pressure sales people once outside of the confines of the hotel.
• They are like clickers in Las Vegas (yes, that bad).

Cape Town, South Africa

• This was the most pleasant surprise of the trip.
• We had no expectations of this town, but absolutely loved it.
• So much, we could see ourselves living here (at least Rob could).
• I felt like I was in San Francisco on steroids and visa versa (I heard it both ways).
• We weren't big on the wine thing, but we still did the tours due to the beauty of the country.
• Whilst in Rome… (do as the Romans do).
• Sonoma and Napa took second place, in our opinions.
• People are extremely nice here.
• The Cape of Good Hope was a great experience.
• Shark diving rocked better than expected.
• We felt very safe, but cold in the ocean.
• I know why they call them wetsuits now.
• Apartheid ended over 30 years ago in South Africa, but it was still felt there.
• Townships aren't slums, as I was corrected many times.
• I felt sick to my stomach while touring the townships.
• I felt welcome while touring the townships.


Overall

• NYC to Jberg flight better-than Jberg to DC flight (note to self).
• We checked out of work pretty much right after we boarded the first plane.
• We watched very little TV while overseas.
• We listened to very little radio while overseas.
• We didn't miss either very much.
• We didn't track the Royals or Chiefs like normal while overseas.
• We still loved the Royals and Chiefs, but didn't care if they won or lost nearly as much.
• We quickly cared once we returned home.
• We learned - A LOT about African countries, not just South Africa or Zimbabwe. A LOT!
• South Africa is freakin huge, not to mention the other 53 countries that make up Africa in total.
• We missed our family, friends, neighbors, and home while gone - very much.
• We still haven't checked in to work on the day prior to be going back.
• I saw some things that I could only imagine, both good and bad.
• I still love the USA, more than any country.
• South Africa comes in a nice second, so far.
• I have a new found respect for my country and the freedom it has provided me.
• I have a new found hatred to the capitalistic bastards that make this country one of the most selfish in the world (not the worst, but how can I buy a beer for $0.80 in SA but not in US?).
• Ok, bastards was a little tough, but jesus, it doesn't really cost that much for beer, right?
• Poverty in US has nothing on poverty in SA.
• This was a trip of a lifetime.
• We will go back to South Africa, because nobody does something so nice just one time.
• Because we didn't see, do, or experience quite enough of this wonderful part of the world.

South Africa 2015 - September, 9 - Richards Bay & Victoria Falls

South Africa 2015 - September, 9 - Richards Bay & Victoria Falls

Travel days tend not to be too eventful over here.  Any travel we planned had to go through Johannesburg.  Not sure why, but it is something that we had to deal with.  Upon getting up at 0-dark-thirty so we could get the the Richards Bay Airport, we didn't have much time for anything other than a shower and hit the door.  We ended up having to gas up the rental before returning it, which was a feat in itself.  Naturally, I didn't stop at the first gas station I saw, because I was sure there was one near the airport - or so I thought.  Anyway, after going around in a giant circle and getting gas at a station very near the first one I saw, we were on our way to the airport.  Surprising fact over here in South Africa, there are still a lot of full service gas stations.

Airport security isn't quite a brutal as the US in South Africa either, at least not at Richards Bay. However, they only have one line and they scan all the workers as they enter the secure area as well.  Unbeknownst to us, we managed to get a full size bottle of sun screen (but we didn't know yet).  The plane was the daring prop plane that we took over to Richards Bay a mere 10 days prior.  No frills but plenty of seats as it was less than 1/4 full.

Once we arrived at Johannesburg, we traipsed through A terminal to get to the B terminal, where our new plane to take us to Victoria Falls would meet us.  If you have not been to Johannesburg airport, you aren't missing much.  Lots of shops you need to walk through to get from one terminal to the other.  Passport screening and gate security at each terminal too (not a full secure area, several mini ones).  No big deal though.  We made it through security with that bottle of sun screen again (we still don't know yet), but this time the guard noticed something in the bag so he had us take out the contents and allowed us through once he saw there was no bottle.

We arrived at the gate ready to board the bus in order to shuttle us to the plane out on the tarmac.  That is how domestic travel is in these parts - only international flights are in the cool kid gates.  Once we were in the line, Kathy went up and the attendant said that her ticket was no good and ripped it up.  She was in shock, however it was quick after that that they provided us information that we were going to be upgraded to business class.  Score!  We boarded the plane, got in the nice comfy seat, and had a very nice ride up to Victoria Falls.

Once arrived at Victoria Falls, since it is in Zimbabwe, we had to clear customs and pay the $30US each to get in the country - supposedly to get our visas.  After we paid the ransom, er ah visa fee, we went to meet our guide who was going to take us to the hotel.  He had a van full and we waiting a good hour before they finally decided to bus another couple and us up by ourselves.  Thank goodness.  There was a Umkhankaso Wamajaha group right outside the airport singing and dancing and selling CD’s.  I gave them a couple of bones so I could take some photos, but held back not the CD purchase.

We got to the room with around 2.5 hours before we were to leave for the sunset cruise, so we found the bar (duh), got us a beer, and went to the pool.  It was around 90*f, so warm enough for a dip.  The water was very cold, but once we were in, it was fine.  Very refreshing.  We went back to the room to get ready with another cold one in hand so we could hit the greeting point out front of the hotel.  When we were unpacking the necessities, I noticed that there was a big bottle of sunscreen in one of our carryons.  So that is what the security guard was talking about…  Now we feel like rebels!  

The sunset cruise was very nice.  There were only 10 of us on the very large one deck boat.  Eats and drinks were free, so thats what we did.  The eats were served as appetizers, so not a lot to eat, but very good food.  The beers were nice and cold as well.  Turns out, we ran them completely out of beer between our table and the table of Pennsylvania folks next to us.  Ha!  We disembarked and headed up the hill where some more Umkhankaso Wamajaha performers were.  This time I got a photo of the leader with Kathy and threw a $5spot in the basket as a thank you.  He forced the CD on me and asked for $20, I said no thanks.  He said, how about another $10 and you can have it.  So I bought it.  I hope it at least has some music on it when I get home…

We headed back to the hotel and hung by the bar for a bit.  Another foursome showed up and chatted it up with us as we all ate and drank.  Turns out they were from Denver, so we talked a little football and bantered a bit before heading to the room for some shut eye.  Early plans for the next day will get you to bed on time around here.  We planned to hit the Victoria Falls tour and should be picked up around 0825 SAST.  Until tomorrow, see ya!

South Africa 2015 - September 8, Richards Bay

South Africa 2015 - September 8, Richards Bay

Originally we were planning on hitting the beach near our hotel, getting some good lunch, and then taking a sunset cruise in the bay with Patty in her personal cruiser. Since the weather did not cooperate we ended up going to the salon so Kathy could get her nails done and I could get a full body massage. Not a bad change of plans, if you ask me!

Not much else went on during the day due to windy and rainy conditions. We ended up drinking $.80 beers again at Jack's for little bit and then we went to Mariners to have a nightcap before we went to get our last meal. Nikki was working at Mariners again, so she hooked us up again and even played my blues playlist consisting of Bart Walker, BB King, Samantha Fish, and Trampled Under Foot. Not only did she approve, but the rest of the bar was bobbing their heads to the beat of the music. 

Overall a very nice and relaxing day, which I think we needed. 

This will likely be our shortest update ever for this trip. Headed to Zimbabwe and Victoria Falls tomorrow. 

South Africa 2015 - September 7, Richards Bay

South Africa 2015 - September 7, Richards Bay, St Lucia, and the Indian Ocean

We didn't have many plans for the day, but we did discuss heading up to St Lucia to go on the waterway and view the hippos and crocodiles.  After mulling around the hotel room for a bit, we decided that was the plan for the day.  We attempted to educate ourselves on 1) where St Lucia was, 2) who did boat tours, and 3) was there anything else to do while we were up there.  While looking up all that stuff on the internet, we noticed that none of the tour companies provided physical street addresses, which made it a little difficult to set a GPS to.


Before we set out for the day, we needed to get some cash, so looking for an ATM or a bank was on the agenda I needed to hit the stores next to the hotel also to see if I could score some swimming trunks, since I left mine at home.  We scored on the ATM quite quickly, so we knocked that out of the way.  There are quite a few shops along the bay where we were staying and surprisingly enough, there were two shops that sold swimming apparel.  The first one was a strike out, however the second one had just what I needed.  Of course, Kathy didn't ‘need’ anything, but found herself buying a new one piece suit as well.

Once outfitted, we went back to the room to get the camera gear, car keys, and a bag full of essentials in case we wanted to get wet in the Indian Ocean.  We also brought jackets just in case the boat tour got chilly.  As we set out, we both decided we were hungry and wanted to eat in Richards Bay prior to hitting the road.  As luck has it, there was a McDonalds just up the street, so we both decided that was likely going to have to work.  The menu at McD’s over here isn't quite what we know it as back home.  Though the do have the essentials, Big Mac, Quarter Pounder, Chicken sandwiches, etc, it wasn't as plentiful as we know it.  Kathy decided on a spicy chicken pocket flapper thingy, where there are two chicken breasts inside a pocket dealy.  I chose the quarter pounder with a Coke.  Kathy also ordered a tea, but when she got it, it was hot tea and it had milk in it.  They don't do iced tea over here.  Pretty much anything with ice in it is a no go…  even my Coke was poured with no ice in it.  Very odd. 

Anyway, my meal was fairly uneventful, with the exception of no ice in my drink.  Everything tasted like back home and it was topped like I would expect it.  But Kathy’s spicy chicken sandwich flapper dealy was a different story.  I didn't try it, but she said it was HOT, as in spicy hot.  So much so, she ended up taking the chicken patties out, wiping the excess sauce on a napkin, and eating them plain.  I guess the sauce had something like curry in it.  We finished up what we could and headed on our 1.5 hour journey up to St Lucia.

We got in to St Lucia around 12:45 PM SAST, which was just after the noon boat took off at Advantage Tours.  The next boat was set to sail at 3:00 PM, so we bought our tickets to that cruise and looked for a place to wet our whistles.  We didn't have to go far, since there was a bar and restaurant right next door called Barraca.  Their motto is “A taste of Portugal with a touch of Italian.”  Naturally, since we just had lunch, food was not on the agenda.  So we did what any other thirsty tourist would do - thats right, order some beers!  We sipped on a couple frosty cold Castle Lite draughts and awaited our tour time.  People watching here wasn't too bad either, since there were locals and tourists all at once.  Even the occasional bus would pull up out front and load or unload tourists, who would walk along the street to the shops and such.

3:00 PM was getting close, so we decided to head up the way to the boat area and get on our vessel.  The boat was a typical touristy pontoon like craft.  It had bench seats around the edges as well as in the middle facing outward.  I believe it could hold up to around 100 passengers, including a space up on the top where you could get unobstructed viewing.  We chose to be down on the main level, since that would give me the best vantage point to take photographs.  You see, if you get on the level of your subject, it tends to make the subject three dimensional, whereas if you shoot from the top down, it flattens the subject making appear two dimensional.  We set sail right at 3:00 PM, or 1500 hrs as they say over here.

The weather was beautiful as we set sail.  It was around 28c or near 90*f with a slight breeze with a nice bright sun and virtually no clouds. We were promised to see crocodiles and hippos and there was no disappointment there.  We first came across a croc sunbathing on the shore along with his/her brother/sister near.  After that, we saw some hippos in the water, which was on average only 1.5 meters deep throughout the marshland.  The history of how this came to be was interesting. The drought in the eastern South Africa stems back around 15 years now.  The marshlands were once connected to the Indian Ocean, but when the water receded a few years back, it couldn't recover quick enough and a sandbar was made as a part of the ocean doing its thing, and it separated from the ocean.  The marshlands, also known as a lake now, which is the biggest salt water lake in South Africa.  The captain even spoke about the different species that were still contained in the lake, which really belong in the ocean.  Bull sharks were a part of the identified animals, which grew a bit of a surprise from the guests. 

We were able to see several different animals out of the water as well.  Our captain would spot things from a long ways a way, where we could not even see.  The birds we spotted were King Fishers, African Eagles, and the Goliath Heron, also known as the giant heron.  The male and female African Eagle are rarely spotted near each other, but on our cruise, they were perched on branches right next to each other, which I happened to have my camera in hand to view.  They appeared to be hunting for fish for their nightly meal.  One of the King Fishers we saw had a small fish in its mouth, where the captain drew our attention on how the bird knocks the fish around until it dies, that way it can be eaten easier (less resistance).  That King Fisher literally beat the crap out of that fish on the branch he was nested on.  Wild in the wild! 

We saw a lot of hippos.  Some were solo and some were in small groups.  Then, we got to see a heard of around 25 together. Mostly in the water, but a couple out of the water, which is rare to see during the day.  Some of them would nestle their heads on the others backs. Others would just hang out in the water side by side.  Pretty calm animals during the day. However, the captain said last year alone there were over 2,900 people killed by hippos in Africa, which makes them one of the most dangerous of the Big 5.  After chilling with the hippos for a while, we headed back to the dock.

The sun was getting ready to set, so we headed out to the beach before getting back on the road to Richards Bay.  The walk to the beach was pretty easy from the parking lot we found near it.  The waves were deafening and there was a bit of a haze over the area, even though the sun was shining through the trees just to the west of the beach.  We snapped a few photos, stuck our feet in the Indian Ocean, and headed back as dark was upon us.  We heard stories about not being out after dark since some of the local villages will put up road blocks and rob the drivers of their valuables.  We felt safe since it was only 6:00 PM, yet very very dark already.  The driving over here is difficult during the day.  But its nearly impossible during the night, since the same rules apply as daytime driving…  passing using the center line as the slower drivers get over on the shoulder to let the faster drivers pass.  Problem with that at night time, you cant tell if a car is on the shoulder or passing.  That makes for some interesting decision making behind the wheel. 

Once we returned to the hotel, we packed out the stuff we took and went to find a bit of a morsel to eat.  We had our eye on Mojitos, which is a cuban/mexian restaurant near the hotel.  We had a three appetizers and a couple of beers while we facetimed the moms to catch up.  The funny thing is about getting wifi around these parts is that you have to have the passcode for the establishment you are in.  Sometimes its an easy passcode, but most the time its not.  Most of the places we have gone to will give us the code, which is free unlimited wifi for us, unlike the 500mb limit we have at the hotel per day (though we do have three different codes, which gives us 1.5gb per day).

We headed for a nightcap at Mariners again to catch up with the cool bar lady, Nicki.  Nicki is 19 and very nice to talk with.  She seems genuinely interested in how we live and compares it to the culture over here.  I explained to her about going to Royals and Chiefs games and preparing food for the tailgates before the games.  We even showed her the sports complex back home on Google and explained that the Royals stadium held around 40,000 and Arrowhead held 80,000 people.  Big sports over here are rugby, soccer, and cricket, none of which are very popular in the states - though soccer is making a try.

We headed back for some shut eye and upon opening the suitcase, we found a little friend that obviously came with us from Zuly Nyala.  It was a little gheko, which was around 3 inches in length and looked like the same one we saw in our room up there.  I didn't bother looking for it, since it scurried off pretty quickly.  Kathy asked me if I was worried that it would climb up on the bed and in to my mouth while I was sleeping.  I was not worried, so sleep time it was.